Art of edge-finishing.



P. R. GLASS.

ART OF EDGE FINISHING.

APPLICATION FILED OUT. 31, 1913.

1 102 494; Patented July 7,1914.

nine-ran snares onnnon.

PEBLEY R. GLASS, 0F BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 P. R. GLASS COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

ART 0E EDGE-FINISHING.

ll,i2,d94l

original application filed May 15, 1918,

Specification of letters Patent.

Patented July v, tare.

fierlal No. 767 ,7563. Divided and this application filed October 81, 1913. serial No. 298,528.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Penne R. GLASS, a citizen of the United States, residing .at Brookline in the county of-hlorfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in the Art of Edge-Fin-' ishing, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates the art of finishing the edges of sheet material, and is illustrated in connection with the cementing and folding of the edges of parts of boots and shoes.

In shoes of man styles vamps are used which. extend to t e extreme rear of the shoes where they are joined by th back seam. Such a vamp is termed a closed vamp as distinguished from a vamp which extends only part way from the toe toward the rear of the shoe. It will be understood that a closed vamp forms a continuous bandv so thatit can not be opened out to permit vamps it has namely, cementing the edge, curved edge at the throat of the vamp, folding the edge to points on each side within about one inch of the rear end, closing and generally staying the back seam, recementmg and finally folding the remaining portion of the edge left unfolded adjacent to the back seam.

In accordance with the method of my invention the back seam is closed before the folding operation, the vamp is then cemented and the entire edge isprogressively folded, the throat being simultaneously snipped during the folding operation. By this method, therefore, the second folding operato improvements in p ject the vamp to "six or more distinct" operations; shipping the tion and the recementing operation above discussed are entirely obviated.

The important advantages in the present method over that formerly practised in economy of time will be obvious but even eater advantages to the system of manuacture result from the method of my inventlon. Whereas formerly it was necessary to return the partially folded Vamps to the stitchers for closing the back'seam and then again send the closed and partially folded to the folders, it is now possible to such a piecemeal procedure, and 65 vamps avoi greatly expedite the course of the work.

In fact the practice of the novel method herein isclosed results in saving nearl two days time in getting the work throng the stitching room of a large factor 1 'Ihe method above discussed broadly comprises cementing the entire upper edge of a closed vamp and then progressively folding the cemented edge in a single continuous operatlon, starting at any given point in the edge and terminating at the same point.

I have discovered that a closed vamp may be folded by a machine having a projecting or overhanging arm or post adapted to passed through the opening of the vamp and p j having suitable folding instrumentalities located adjacent to the end of such projecting arm or post. A machine of thi character may be em loyed to good advantage in carryin-g out t e finalstep of the novel method herein disclosed. Such a folding machine, co-

constitutes the subjectmatter of my nding applicationrSerial Nos 167,156,; filed ay 'l5, 1913, of which the present application is a division.

Any desired form of foldin' instrumentalities may be employed withln the scope of the present invention although it is believed those best adapted for this work are similar to the folding instrumentalities disclosed and claimed in my prior application above identified. These instrumentalities briefly comprise a support, a creaser over-v lOO folding and feeding the The invention will be best understood and appreciated from the following descriptlon of one manner of carrying out the method,

the steps thereof being shown in the accompanying drawings, in wh1ch, I

Figural illustrates the step of closing a vam Fig. 2 illustrates the step of staying ."the ack seam of a vamp; Fig. 3 illustrates the bee the cement applying operation, and Fig. 4

shows a close folded. v

Av closed vein is shown in Figs: 3 and 4, in Fig. 3 the si es being laid together with their unfinished surfaces out. In dealing vamp 3H1 process of being with a leather vamp the edge to'be folded is preliminarily skived so that the added thickness formed by the fold will not be objectionable. In dealing with a vamp of tex-tg tile material the skiving is unnecessary.

those cases where the vamp is skived this operationis eflected before the vam is closed andv while its edge may be laid "presented to the machine.

at and so The first step in carrying out the method ofthe present lnvention consists in stitching together the rear ends of the vamp or closing the vamp, its edge bein skived but uncemented and unfolded. T is ste is illustrated in Fig. 1 in which 20 indicates the needle of a sewing machine, 22 the usual .needle bar 60 is shown as carrying two needles which pass through the aperture in a presser foot 62. A similar stay Strip 200 is used to cover the side seam if a pieced vamp is used, as indicated in Fig. 3.

The third step of the method consistsin applying cement to the edge which is to be folded. This may be done by hand or by the use of an .upper cementing machine of any preferred construction. In Fig. 3 this step is illustrated as being carried out by .hand by means of a brush 30. As suggested,

the skived portion of the edgeis coated on one side of the vamp and after this has partially dried the vamp is turned over and the other side similarly treated. In applying the cement the upper ends of the stay strips 200 and 202 are coated as well as the edge of the vamp.

In Fig. 4 the final step of the method is illustrated as being carried out with the assistance of the machine disclosed in my prior application, but it is obvious that this step may be carried out by any other suitable nioaaea fold vertex. .The fold is completed by the action of a parrof pressing jaws, one being indicated by reference character 66, which are also utilized to feed the work. The

creaser 50 is mounted on an overhanging arm .M'which also carries a slitting knife 122 "arranged to be operated when a curved edge is encountered to slit the vamp as shown in Fig. 4. For further details of the folding machine herein shown in part reference may be had to my prior application above identified.

' The folding operation is preferably begun at a point on the edge of the vamp at one side of the back seam, such for example as that indicated by the arrow in Fig. 4. Accordingly this point on-the edge is presented in a horizontal position to the action of the movable folder 55 and by the first feeding operation the partially formed fold is moved into range of the jaw 66 by which the fold is completed. The folding is continued in a stepof the vamp and back to the starting oint. During this operation the vamp is drawn about the support 6 and each portion to be folded is presented successively in horizontal position to the folding The ends of the stay strips are turned back and folded without any interruption of the process and when the starting point is again miachded the entire edge of the vamp'is comp ete In folding the edge along the curved por t-ion of the throat the vamp is slitted by the knife 122 which for this purpose is temporarily thown' into 0 eration. The slitting takes place one step in advance of the fold mg.

Having thus fully described my invention, 1 claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States:

1. The method of finishing the edge of a vamp which consists in stitching the rear ends of the vamp together so that its upper edge will resent an endless outline, cementing said e ge for its entire length, and finally folding the edge in a step-by-step manner progressing from a given starting point entirely around said edge and back to the starting point.

2. The method of finishing the edge of av vamp whichconsists in closing the vamp by a back seam, the edge of the vamp being unfolded, staying the back seam, applying y-step manner about the entire edge instrumentalities.

cement to the entire upper edge of the vamp including the upper end of the stay strip, and finally folding the edge in a step-by-step manner beginning at a point on one side of the stay strip and including the end of the stay strip before the starting point is again reached. 3

3. The method of finishing the edge of a closed vamp which consists in cement-in the entire edge, including the ends of the ack and side seams, and then folding the entire edge in anuninterrupted step-by-step operation.

4. The method of finishing the edge of a closed vamp which consists in cementin the entire edge separating the two sides 0 the vamp and locating one portion thereof in a substantially horizontal position, advancing the vamp to bring every other portion successively into that position, and simultaneously folding the edge.

5. The method of finishing the edge of a closed Vamp which consists in turning the vamp inside out, cementing its upper edge, then progressively folding the entire edge beginnin at a point on one side of the back seam an passing about the throat to the same point, and slittin the throat progressively one step ahead 0 the point where the folding is taking place.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence 0 two subscribing witnesses.

PERLEY R. GLASS.

Witnesses:

GEO. E. WARREN, FRED W. GUILoRD. 

